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Хорошая диета играет важную роль в общем состоянии здоровья и качестве жизни ваших крыс. Толстая крыса все еще может быть истощенной, и по этой причине вы не можете просто кормить их любыми гранулами или смесью, которые найдете в магазине. Наиболее распространенные в продаже корма известны очень низким качеством и совершенно не подходят для крыс. Здесь мы рассмотрим основы питания ваших крыс и перечислим хорошие, плохие и опасные продукты.
Section index:
* How much do rats eat and how much will it cost
* Mixes VS premade lab blocks
Section index:
* Feeding methods and meal time enrichment
* Watering - Bottle VS Bowl
Section index:
* Fruit and veggies
* Treats
Section index:
* Corn, safe or dangerous?
* Vitamin deficencies & overdose
* Herbal and homeopathic additives
Section index:
* understanding food labeling
Section index:
* Storing treats
* Storing main food
Основы рациона
How much do rats eat & how much will it cost?
Before getting rats, it’s crucial to have a realistic estimate of how much food your mischief will need and what it will cost on a monthly basis. Food prices can vary significantly by country—even within the same continent—and by brand!
So, how do we start estimating the cost of feeding rats?
It’s actually quite simple! On average, rats, depending on their age and size, eat around 15-20 grams of their dry base food per day. If we average the daily food intake of a rat at 18 grams, you can simply multiply 18 grams by the number of rats you have.
Example: You have four rats, and you buy 2 kg of food at a time.
First, calculate the daily intake for four rats, which would be 4 x 18 = 72 grams. This means your rats' daily consumption of food is 72 grams.
Now, how do we figure out how many days your 2 kg bag of food will last? First, convert kilograms to grams. 1 kg equals 1,000 grams, so 2 kg would be 2,000 grams.
So, with 2,000 grams of food and a daily consumption of 72 grams, you simply divide 2,000 by 72, which gives you 27.7. This 27.7 is the number of days the 2 kg bag of food will last with this specific group of rats.
Knowing how long your food will last can help you plan how often you need to buy more and how much it will add to your monthly rat care costs.
Mixes VS Premade lab blocks
When choosing a lab block or mix for your rats, many of us turn to the pet store, assuming that everything they sell is good for the animal it’s marketed to. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.
Most foods marketed for rats are also marketed for mice, which doesn’t make much sense, as rats and mice have surprisingly different nutritional needs. Mice require a bit more protein in their diet than rats do, so foods marketed for both are often suitable for one or the other, but rarely ideal for both.
When searching for the right food for your pets, you might encounter a debate between lab blocks and mixes. In America, people often favor lab blocks, while Europeans tend to prefer a mix. The truth is, both options are valid if done correctly. Both lab blocks and mixes can be of high quality—or they can be subpar.
What makes a good lab block?
A good quality lab block should contain high-quality ingredients and all the essential nutrients a rat needs. One key aspect to look for is a lab block that doesn’t include hay. While rats can digest Timothy hay, it isn’t nutritionally beneficial, so there’s no point in having it on the ingredient list—it only adds unnecessary fat. Very few animals can actually digest and extract nutrients from grass products like alfalfa. For rats, these ingredients act as empty fillers without providing any nutritional value.
For pet rats that aren’t used for breeding, you should aim for around 14% protein in their diet. Anywhere between 14% and 16% protein works well, but the maximum recommended limit for non-breeding rats is 16%. If you have Harleys, it’s important to keep their diet low in protein, preferably not over 15%. High protein levels can strain the kidneys and cause various kidney issues over time. Additionally, it can affect their skin—males, especially Harleys and hairless rats, tend to be more sensitive to this. High protein intake can cause them to feel itchy and scratch their skin, leading to painful sores. Many owners mistakenly treat this with parasite treatments, but the skin condition usually improves once the protein content is lowered to below 16%, ideally to 14-15%.
Another key factor to consider is the fat content in your lab blocks. Ideally, fat shouldn’t exceed 4-5%. High fat content in your rats’ food can contribute to unhealthy weight gain faster than you might think. Obesity can lead to various health issues and shorten their lifespan. To optimize your rats’ health and lifespan, it’s crucial to maintain a healthy body condition.
What makes a good mix?
A good mix, like a quality lab block, should be made from high-quality ingredients. Unfortunately, commercial mixes from pet stores often contain poor ingredients and a lot of fillers, such as hays and grasses, which are not suitable for rats. Many of these mixes are also very high in fats due to the large percentage of nuts and seeds. As a result, rats may lack important minerals because the ingredients are not appropriate, and their bodies cannot utilize them effectively. When selecting a mix, aim for the same nutritional basics as with a lab block: around 14-16% protein and no more than 4-5% fat.
Whether you choose a commercial mix, a small-business-made mix, or a homemade one, it’s essential to know exactly what you’re feeding your rats, including the vitamins and minerals. We will discuss the importance of vitamins and minerals later in this article.
The main drawback of mixes, regardless of their source, is often poor and vague labeling. This issue is not usually due to malice or bad intent; it's just a common problem with many mixes. While vague labeling is not unique to mixes—many lab blocks also suffer from it—it tends to be a slightly more significant issue with mixes.
Feeding methods and meal time enrichement
For many people, the enrichment value of food is a significant concern, and this is perfectly understandable—especially since it’s important to keep your rats’ brains engaged in their day-to-day lives. There are many ways to incorporate play and natural scavenging behavior into feeding time.
However, it’s crucial not to compromise your rats’ nutritional health and safety for the sake of food that looks fun and appealing to us humans. The primary purpose of food is to nourish your rats and ensure they are meeting all their nutritional needs.
Both a well-balanced mix and a well-balanced lab block can be fed in ways that engage your rats’ brains! Here are a few great ways to make mealtime more engaging:
Scatter feeding VS Bowl
When it comes to feeding your rats, there are two common methods: using a bowl or scatter feeding. Both approaches are effective and have their benefits.
Bowl Feeding:
Using a bowl allows you to monitor how quickly the rats are consuming their food, which can be particularly useful for those who need to track food intake closely. Bowls can also be more practical for older or less mobile rats since the food is always in the same place, making it easier for them to find.
Scatter Feeding:
Scatter feeding involves spreading the food over the cage floor and mixing it with bedding. This method encourages rats to engage in natural foraging behavior, making mealtime more stimulating and enjoyable. Scatter feeding promotes physical activity and sensory enrichment, which is beneficial for their overall health.
Starting Scatter Feeding: You might wonder if it's safe to start scatter feeding with young rats. By the time rats are ready to go to new homes, they are typically old enough to participate in scatter feeding. In fact, it helps stimulate their minds and bodies. While humans rely primarily on vision, rats depend more on their sense of smell to locate food, even when it is scattered in the bedding.
Foraging Toys:
Foraging toys add an element of play to mealtime, engaging your rats' brains and encouraging natural behaviors. Parrot foraging toys often work well for rats. A popular choice is the foraging wheel, which can be used with dry food or treats. DIY options, like those made from toilet rolls and egg cartons, are also effective and cost-efficient. For older rats, opt for simpler foraging toys that don't require climbing or balancing.
Hanging Food:
Using hanging buckets or baskets for food can make mealtime more engaging for young, agile rats. As they work to access the food, these accessories can swing and move, adding a playful challenge. Ensure there is a hammock or other safety feature underneath to catch any rats that might fall. This method is not suitable for rats with mobility issues or those recovering from injuries.
Watering - Bottles VS Bowls
Water bottles:
Bottles are the most common method for providing fresh and clean water around the clock. They are inexpensive and hygienic because the rats cannot directly access the water inside the bottle, which helps prevent contamination from bedding, food debris, feces, or urine.
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Maintenance: Change the water in the bottle every few days, and thoroughly rinse both the bottle and nozzle during each change. For a more thorough cleaning, wash the bottle and nozzle with hot, soapy water and rinse well once a week.
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Leaks: If the bottle leaks in small droplets, inspect it to see if the issue can be fixed. If not, replace the bottle to prevent wet bedding, which can quickly develop mold.
Water Bowls:
Water bowls are another option but require more stringent maintenance. Rats will quickly contaminate water bowls by shoveling bedding into the bowl or by introducing feces and urine directly or through their paws.
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Maintenance: Change the water at least once a day, preferably twice a day, as bowls can become unsanitary very quickly. Wash the bowl with hot, soapy water each time you change the water.
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Attachment: If using a water bowl, ensure it is securely fixed to the cage to prevent tipping. Fixed bowls, such as those designed for birds, help avoid spills that can soak bedding and create extra work in cleaning and replacing soiled bedding.
Choosing between bottles and bowls depends on your preference and your rats' needs, but both methods require regular maintenance to ensure your rats have access to clean and safe drinking water.
Распознание этикеток на продуктах питания
Fruits & vegetables
Fruits and vegetables are excellent sources of vitamins for rats, but they should be given in moderation due to their natural sugar content. Excess sugar can be harmful, particularly from modern fruits and vegetables, which are often sweeter than their wild counterparts. Vegetables high in sugar, like carrots, peas, bell peppers, and corn, should be limited. Dark leafy greens are a healthier choice.
Always consult a SAFE FOOD LIST and DANGEROUS FOOD LIST to ensure the fruits and vegetables you offer are safe.
Treats
As omnivores, rats can eat a huge variety of different things without it being dangerous for them. This makes choosing treats for your rats quite fun as you can offer them a very wide range of flavours on regular basis. In this section, we will go through some of the most common types of rats treats and what to keep in mind when considering buying them.
Rat-Specific Treats:
Many commercially available treats for rats contain high levels of sugar and minimal nutritional value. Be cautious of treats marketed to all small rodents or rabbits, as their dietary needs differ from rats. For example, yogurt drops are high in sugar and not suitable.
Baby Food:
Fruit-based baby food pouches are often high in sugar and should not be used as a primary treat. Research by the British Dental Association has shown that many baby food pouches contain more sugar than soft drinks, which can be detrimental to your rats' health.
To quote the BDA;
“Over a quarter contained more sugar by volume than Coca Cola, with parents of infants as young as four months marketed pouches that contain the equivalent of up to 150% of the sugar levels of the soft drink. Those pouches are without exception fruit-based mixes.
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'Boutique' brands appear to have higher levels of sugar than traditional baby food brands or own brand alternatives, with market leaders Ella's Kitchen and Annabel Karmel coming in for criticism. While high levels of 'natural' sugar have been described by manufacturers as inevitable with fruit-based pouches, some brands offer products based on similar ingredients that contain around half the levels of sugar of the worst offenders.
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Some products examined aimed at four months plus contain up to two thirds of an adult's recommended daily allowance (RDA) of sugar. Neither the World Health Organisation (WHO) nor the UK Government's Scientific Advisory Committee on Nutrition (SACN) cite an RDA for children, simply stressing that as little should be consumed as possible.
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The sector has consistently adopted disingenuous language highlighting the presence of only "naturally occurring sugars" or the absence of "added sugars", with others making opaque claims of products being "nutritionally approved" or in line with infants' "nutritional and developmental needs". All high sugar products adopt 'halo labelling' principles, focusing on status as 'organic', 'high in fibre' or 'containing 1 of your 5 a day', misleading parents into thinking they are making healthy choices.
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Over two thirds of the products examined exceeded the 5g of sugar per 100ml threshold set for the sugar levy applied to drinks. Dentists stress expansion of fiscal measures would likely have favourable outcomes in terms of encouraging reformulation."
To read the full article from the BDA, CLICK HERE
To view the full table of sugar value in different baby foods, CLICK HERE
Cat treats
Cat treats can be a good option for rats as they are often smaller and contain less sugar and filler compared to rat-specific treats. Lick treats designed for cats, such as those made with fish or poultry, can be a healthier alternative to sugary baby foods. Ensure that cat treats do not contain catnip, which is harmful to rats and can cause seizures.
Catnip is not always labeled as such, so it’s important to recognize other names it may be listed under on packaging. Other names for catnip include:
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Nepeta
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Nepetalactone
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Actinidine
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Herb extract
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Cat grass (Note: Cat grass and catnip are two entirely different plants, but "cat grass" can sometimes be used on labels to refer to catnip. Please be cautious with this label.)
Knowing these alternative names can help ensure you’re gettinga safe treat for your rats
Dog Treats:
Dog treats can also be suitable for rats, provided they are low in fillers and sugar. Give them in small pieces as dog treats tend to be larger and avoid treats containing red meats; opt for fish or poultry varieties.
Pantry Products:
Items like oats, plain sugar-free cereal, and dry pasta are safe and healthy treats for your rats. These pantry staples provide grains without excessive additives or sugar. Pantry products are easily available for everyone and are a very affortable option cmpared to many treats made by the pet industry.
BEYOND THE BASICS
Dried corn, Safe or dangerous?
When searching for information on whether rats can consume dried corn, you will likely find that the answer is no. This is accurate for those in North America. The drying process for corn in America increases the risk of aflatoxins, which are toxins produced by certain fungi found in crops like corn. Aflatoxins are known to be carcinogenic.
In North America, dried corn should be avoided as an ingredient in pet food due to this risk.
In contrast, the European Union (EU) has stricter regulations regarding aflatoxins in agricultural products. As a result, many corn, almond and peanut products imported from America to the EU must undergo an approval process. Because of these stricter regulations, dried corn is not as hazardous in the EU as it is in North America.
In the EU, dried corn is considered a safe ingredient in pet food when used in reasonable amounts. However, even with stricter regulations, it is important not to overfeed dried corn to your rats. Excessive amounts of any ingredient, including corn, can be unhealthy.
It is highly recommended to avoid WILD bird seed mixes due to the same increased risk of alfatoxin regardless of your location
Pets affected by aflatoxin poisoning may show symptoms such as sluggishness, loss of appetite, vomiting, jaundice (a yellowish tint to the eyes, gums, or skin due to liver damage), unexplained bruising or bleeding, and/or diarrhea. Aflatoxins can also affect blood clotting, leading to long-term liver problems or even death. Some pets may suffer liver damage without showing early signs of aflatoxin poisoning and may die suddenly if they continue consuming contaminated food. Pet owners who suspect their pets have ingested aflatoxin-contaminated products should contact their veterinarians immediately and stop feeding the suspected food, especially if their pets show signs of illness.
If you suspect your pet has aflatoxin poisoning, contact a veterinarian immediately.
Vitamin and mineral deficencies
As most of us know, deficiencies can have significant consequences for our pets' health and well-being. Deficiencies are primarily caused by an imbalance in the diet, but they can also result from issues within the animal's body itself. Deficiencies can easily develop over time, often creating a domino effect. Minerals and vitamins work together to be absorbed and utilized by the body, so a deficiency in one nutrient often leads to deficiencies in others.
The symptoms of deficiencies can range from something as “minor” as poor fur quality and itchy skin to more severe conditions like anemia, seizures, and even death. Therefore, it is crucial to understand exactly what you are feeding your rat.
Nutrition is the fuel of life, and a balanced diet is essential for your pet's health and vitality.
If you suspect that your rat is experiencing symptoms due to deficiencies, start by evaluating their main lab block or mix, depending on which one you use. If you're uncertain whether the symptoms are caused by a poor diet, don't hesitate to consult a veterinarian who well educated in rat nutrition or reach out to a knowledgeable member of the rat community with expertise in rat foods.
Do NO attempt to supplement deficiencies yourself with vitamin/mineral supplements, additives, oils, powders, etc. this is VERY dangerous.
Any additional nutrients should be introduced in the form of safe food.
Vitamin/Mineral supliments, additives and oils
When discussing overdoses, many people focus solely on the immediate effects of a large, acute overdose. While this is certainly dangerous, it can also distract us from the risks associated with long-term, chronic overdoses.
Even small amounts of certain ingredients in supplements can be toxic to rats, with very little margin for error. The biggest risks with supplements involve copper, calcium, vitamin D, and iron.
Supplements, particularly those marketed for pets, are not regulated as strictly as medications. Supplements intended for animals often lack the regulation and quality control required for those meant for human consumption, making them much more hazardous than we realise.
Here are some symptoms associated with overdosing on these substances:
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Iron: Excessive iron can cause severe diarrhea, which leads to rapid dehydration and can quickly become fatal. Symptoms may include bloody or unusually dark stools, weakness, fatigue, low blood pressure, liver failure, lung injury, and death.
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Calcium: An overdose of calcium can impair kidney function and increase blood pH. Symptoms may include nausea, confusion, changes in mental state, muscle weakness, bone pain and fragility, excessive itching, extreme heart rate changes, and seizures.
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Copper: Overdosing on copper can lead to symptoms ranging from mild to severe, including diarrhea, digestive issues, muscle aches, excessive thirst, depression and anxiety, and abnormal heart rate.
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Vitamin D: While important, excessive vitamin D can cause decreased appetite, constipation, dehydration, increased thirst, excessive urination, confusion, lethargy, muscle weakness, difficulty walking, kidney stones, bone pain, and seizures.
These are NOT the only vitamins and minerals that can cause toxicity in rats, but they are among the most common ones sold in supplement form and some of the most hazardous when given in excess. It is crucial to avoid exposing your pet to vitamin toxicities, as these can quickly become fatal or result in long-term health issues.
If you are concerned about whether your rat is getting the right vitamins and minerals, review their diet rather than relying on supplements such as extracts, oils, powders, or water additives.
IF YOU SUSPECT THAT YOUR RAT IS SUFFERING FROM THE SYMPTOMS OF A VITAMIN/MINERAL OVER DOSE, PLEASE CONTACT YOUR VET IMMEDIATELY. IGNORING THESE SYMPTOMS CAN LEAD TO LONG TERM HEALTH EFFECTS AND EVEN DEATH,
Herbal & homepathic additives
to be added soon!
Understanding ingredients
When choosing food and treats for your rats, it’s crucial to understand the ingredients you are providing. Some ingredients are harmless, others can be difficult to identify, some may be unhealthy, and some can be downright dangerous.
Here’s a short guide to common ingredients found in pet foods and what they actually mean:
Understanding these terms can help you make informed choices about your rats' food and ensure their diet is both safe and nutritious.
Catnip DANGEROUS
Catnip is highly dangerous for rats because it is a strong stimulant that can easily trigger seizures. Catnip might not always be labeled as "catnip"; other terms to watch out for include:
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Nepeta
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Nepetalactone
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Actinidine
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Herb extract
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Cat grass (Note: Cat grass and catnip are different plants, but sometimes cat grass may be used to refer to catnip. Be cautious with this term.)
Sugars
Sugar in moderation is generally safe, but excessive sugar can have significant health impacts. Since sugar is rarely labeled directly on pet food, you might see it under various names, such as:
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Corn syrup
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Sucrose
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Glycerine
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Caramel
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Dextrose
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Fructose
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Glucose
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Beet pulp
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Maltodextrin
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Molasses
“Meal” and “Feed”
The terms "meal" and "feed" are often used in pet food to describe by-products of the food industry:
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Bone Meal: Ground bones from various animals used to add calcium and phosphorus to the food. This definition may vary outside Europe.
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Meat Meal: A powder made from parts of animals not sold for human consumption, including residual meat, offal, connective tissues, and sometimes bones. This is cooked at high temperatures and ground into a powder. This definition may vary outside Europe.
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Fish Meal: A fine, dry powder made from rendering and grinding whole fish as well as the bones and offal from processed fish. This definition may vary outside Europe.
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Wheat Feed: A by-product of flour manufacturing from screened wheat grains or de-husked spelt. It mainly consists of outer skins and particles of grain with less endosperm removed than in wheat bran.
Animal By-Products and Derivatives
This term covers all fleshy parts of slaughtered warm-blooded land animals, either fresh or preserved, and all products derived from processing these carcasses. This definition may vary outside Europe.
Derivatives of Vegetable Origin
These are the by-products left after processing vegetable products such as cereals, vegetables, and legumes. While they provide fiber, they are highly processed and do not offer significant vitamins or minerals. This definition may vary outside Europe.
Vegetable Protein Extract
This includes vegetable products where proteins have been concentrated to contain at least 50% crude protein, based on dry matter. These extracts may be restructured or textured. This definition may vary outside Europe.
Alfalfa, Grass, Straw, and Other Grass Products
These ingredients are exactly what they sound like. Despite straightforward labeling, many people are unaware that grass products are unsuitable for rat food. Unlike rabbits, rats cannot digest grass products. This doesn’t mean grass will cause blockages, but the nutrients will not be utilized effectively, essentially making it nutritionally inert for rats.
Safe storing of pet food.
When it comes to storing pet food, the same care we take with our own food should apply.
Storing pet food incorrectly can lead to spoilage, health issues, severe illness, or evne death in pets. Regularly inspect the smell, texture, and appearance of stored food to ensure it remains safe for consumption.
Always Remember: Even well-stored food can spoil unexpectedly. Routine checks are essential to ensure your pet’s food remains safe and nutritious.
Here’s a guide to effectively storing various types of pet food:
Treats
Original Packaging: If possible, keep treats in their original, resealable packaging. If you use a treat jar, remember:
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Expiry Date: Mixed treats in a jar will have the expiry date of the treat with the shortest shelf life. Use up the old treats before adding new ones, and wash the jar thoroughly between refills.
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Avoid Topping Up: Never top up a jar with new treats without emptying it first. This can cause new treats to adopt the older treats' expiry date.
Sheds and Garages
Sheds and garages are often unsuitable for storing pet food due to:
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Lack of Insulation: Many are not insulated or protected from moisture and vermin. This can lead to high moisture levels and mold growth.
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Vermin Risks: Sheds and garages often lack secure doors and floors, making them vulnerable to pests. If your shed or garage does not meet the same standards as your home, avoid using it for food storage.
Attached garages may be suitable if they have proper insulation and flooring. However, keep food off the floor and monitor for vermin. Separate garages and sheds should be avoided for food storage unless they are built to the same standards as your home.
Temperature Considerations: If the storage area falls below freezing, it is not suitable for pet food.
Food in Paper Bags
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Airtight Containers: Once opened, transfer food from paper bags into airtight containers to prevent moisture and spoilage.
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Unopened Paper Bags: Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, off the floor, and not leaning against walls to avoid mold and mildew. Avoid storing unopened bags in sheds or uninsulated outdoor buildings.
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Storage Containers: Use standard food containers with secure lids or large plastic storage boxes for larger quantities. These containers keep food airtight and protected from external elements.
Food in Plastic Bags/Containers
Plastic bags and containers should be resealed tightly after each use.
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Plastic Bags: Use food bag clamps or airtight containers if the bags do not seal themselves. Fold the bag to create a barrier and secure it with a clamp.
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Plastic Containers: Ensure lids are fully twisted or pressed shut to avoid moisture.
Storage Conditions: Store plastic-bagged food in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain freshness.
Liquid Treats
Liquid treats such as baby food and lick treats have the shortest shelf life.
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After Opening: Consume within 48 hours and store in the fridge. They cannot be sealed in a sterile manner, which affects their stability.
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Baby Food Pouches: Follow storage instructions on the packaging.
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Wet Food: Canned or pouched wet food should be consumed within 4 hours if left at room temperature or within 48 hours after opening.
Malt Paste
If rats eat malt paste directly from the nozzle, it must be refrigerated and consumed within 7 days as the rats oral cavity will introduce bacteria into the whole container of malt paste.
Homemade Liquid Treats
Homemade jams and other liquid treats should be consumed within 48 hours, as they are not shelf-stable for long.